It was a kaleidoscopic evening in the foyer and bookshop at Het Nieuwe Instituut. This Thursday Night was spent exploring the construction of fashion images from various angles: playing with reality, fashion as fluid medium, fashion codes, and the power of collaboration.
Joke Robaard talked about her extensive archive of fashion photographs and the research she is engaged in with Camiel van Winkel. Putting images together in series suddenly reveals interesting tendencies; settings used in the 1970s can look remarkably like images made 25 years later. An archive is thus able to uncover a concept that was hitherto concealed. Fashion images represent reality, change it and influence it once again. This fluid play is what gives fashion its eternal appeal. At the end of November, Robaard and Van Winkel will present their installation Assemblage in Het Nieuwe Instituut's Study Centre.
Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm’s work will be on show in View on Fashion in the foyer until the end of October. For the evening they made a Wheel of Fortune based on their archive. The press of a big red button selected a photograph which Blommers/Schumm then talked about. Who was this photograph made for? How did it come about? Are they pleased with the outcome? Blommers/Schumm prefer to be left as free as possible to make their work and to allow the idea to emerge on set. Read more about their working methods in this interview.
A relationship of trust between the photographer and art director/client is very important, Olu Michael Odukoya confirmed wholeheartedly. He has worked with Blommers/Schumm for many years and praised their methods. Art director and editor Odukoya explained how he plays with fashion codes. His magazines Kilimanjaro and Modern Matter are on the one hand entirely about fashion and are filled with advertisements for the big fashion houses. On the other hand, this gives him the space to do unexpected things: a fashion shoot without clothes, for instance.
Meinke Klein, the photographer duo Meinke ten Have and Kees de Klein, talked openly about their work and how it comes about. They manage to carry out apparently impossible assignments (making sunny photos of models on motorbikes in the pouring rain) by being inventive. The magic word for them is collaboration. They prefer to allow themselves to be overwhelmed by the models on set, who are given all the room they need to build their own worlds. Meinke Klein then photographs the scenes from the position of an outsider.